Hello from Rochester: A Perfect Getaway for Stressed Out
Torontonians (and Other Urbanites)
by: Susanne Pacher
Two days ago I took the CAT fast ferry from Toronto to Rochester and arrived
well-rested after a 2.5 hour boat ride in the Port of Rochester, a scenic
Rochester suburb called Charlotte. I was greeted by Patti and Carrie from the
Rochester Visitors Association who had helped me with my itinerary and were kind
enough to show me around.
It had been raining all day and Port Charlotte greeted me with grey skies and
deep-hanging clouds. But the first thing I noticed as we drove towards downtown
Rochester was the amount of green spaces and parks. We drove through a number of
nicely manicured neighbourhoods and Patti showed me some of the amazing parks
systems that Rochester has to offer. We drove through Genesee Valley Park,
designed by famous landscape architect Frederick Law Olmstead who also designed
Central Park in New York City.
We then headed to Highland Park where each May the City holds the annual
Lilac Festival, when more than 1,200 lilac bushes of different varieties and
colours burst into bloom. Driving through beautiful neighbourhoods with large
villas and expansive front lawns we made our way to Cobbs Hill Park which is
located on a hill and holds a water reservoir with a fountain. The unique thing
about Cobbs Hill Park is that there is one spot in this elevated green zone from
where you can perfectly see the skyline of Rochester away in the distance, past
the lush green neighbourhoods that stretch in front of downtown.
After exploring some of the expansive parks of Rochester as well as the
beautiful Victorian-era Mt. Hope Cemetery, we slowly made our way downtown on
East Avenue, a historic street with extensive mansions. One of Rochester's
famous home-grown entrepreneurs is George Eastman, the founder of the
Eastman-Kodak Corporation, which to this day has its headquarters in Rochester.
Eastman was a great benefactor to the city and donated the greatest part of his
wealth, estimated at $2 billion in today's dollars, to different medical,
cultural and educational institutions throughout the city. We briefly stopped at
his home, the Eastman House, an elegant 50-room Colonial Revival Mansion
surrounded by formal gardens.
Following the Eastman House, which also contains the International Museum of
Photography and Film, we crossed over to University Avenue to the Neighbourhood
of the Arts, or also referred to as Artwalk. This is a stretch of road down
University Avenue which houses studios, galleries, art and antique retailers in
a neighbourhood of post-war apartment buildings, multi-family Victorian mansions
and charming cottages.
The award winning Artwalk features sidewalk imprints, artistic benches, tiled
light poles, sculptures and bus shelters all the way from the George Eastman
House towards the stunning neogothic building of the Memorial Art Gallery. Every
September this neighbourhood hosts the Clothesline Art Show.
After Artwalk we headed down Main Street into the downtown area. I got a look
at the Eastman Theatre, home of the Eastman School of Music, one of the top
music schools in the country. The Eastman Theatre itself is an interesting
building, curved and classically styled, it is literally cut off on one side
since a neighbour of George Eastman demanded an exorbitant price for his
property, and rather than giving in to these demands, Eastman simply decided to
stop the building at the property line.
Our next stop was the Browns Race and High Falls Area: one of the city's
newest entertainment districts. Rochester was once known as the Flour City for
all the wheat grinding that occurred along its River. Today, the Brown's Race
area is a national register historic district. The area sits above the Genesee
River, right next to the thundering High Falls. The Pont de Rennes bridge is a
pedestrian bridge, connecting the east and west side of the city, and is named
after Rochester's sister city in France.
Many of the former industrial buildings have been renovated and are now
occupied by ad agencies, tech companies and engineering firms. The streets in
the district have cobble-stoned pavement and feature historically styled street
lighting. There are a number of entertainment places in the area, including the
Triphammer Grill, which has a patio area overlooking the falls. Beside this
restaurant is an old water wheel, testimony to this area's milling history. It's
a very atmospheric place and an example of a successful conversion of an old
industrial area into a modern entertainment district.
The Kodak headquarters are not far away from the High Falls area, and our
tour continued past a number of the downtown streets. As a true architecture
buff, I marveled at how many of Rochester's historic buildings have been
preserved. There are entire blocks that have an intact 19th century street
front, some with cast iron architecture. There was no time to explore the
architecture in detail, that would have to wait for my second day in town. But
needless to say, I knew I had found a city that had preserved a lot of its
architectural heritage that would require further exploration.
We crossed into the city's west end and passed by a famous tavern called Nick
Tahou's House, which is the home of the "garbage plate": a plate full of
hamburgers, fries, and a variety of other heart-attack inducing delicacies. This
route took us past a beautiful modern townhouse development that, surprisingly
enough, holds recently built subsidized housing. We then made our way towards
Susan B. Anthony's house. Anthony was a daring social activist who insisted on
voting rights for women and was arrested in 1872 for voting in the presidential
election, challenging the law. Her house was a congregation for many of her
activist friends, including the famous suffragettes Elizabeth Cady Stanton and
Lucretia Mott. Rochester's history includes another famous activist, the
abolitionist Frederick Douglass, and both Susan B. Anthony and Federick Douglass
are featured in sculptures in a little park just down the road from the Susan B.
Anthony House.
We then took in the Corn Hill neighbourhood, an area with tidy historic homes
that hosts the Corn Hill Arts Festival every July. The next stop on our
itinerary was the Strong Museum, ranked one of the top 10 children's museums in
the United States. It holds the National Toy Hall of Fame and many world
renowned collections of toys, miniatures, dollhouses as well as the world's most
comprehensive collection of dolls. The entrance area features an authentic 1950s
diner still in operation and an antique carousel.
Crossing the city again into the east end, past tree lined avenues with
attractive homes, we headed outside of town to a quaint Rochester suburb called
Fairport, located on the Erie Canal. On the way we passed through the wealthy
suburb of Pittsford, which is the location of the Oak Hill Country Club where
the 2003 PGA Championships were held. On our way to Fairport we drove past St.
John Fisher College which is the location of the Buffalo Bill's training camp.
Fairport itself is a gorgeous little village with beautiful storefronts, a river
walk and public docking facilities. We caught a glimpse of the Colonial Belle, a
2-deck sight-seeing boat that cruises the Erie Canal.
From Fairport we went back to Pittsford, whose quaint historical center is
also located right on the Erie Canal. Pittsford has a number of retail stores
and restaurants that are built around an old lumber mill and it is the home of
the Sam Patch, an excursion and charter boat that is a replica of an old canal
packet boat. Both Fairport and Pittsford reminded me of Niagara-on-the-Lake with
beautifully restored architecture, colourful overflowing flower baskets, and a
variety of shopping and dining opportunities.
Well, after this comprehensive sightseeing program it was time to go for
dinner. We headed up towards the Lake Ontario shoreline and into beautiful
Irondequoit Bay. The name for this large bay of water is from the Iroquois
Nation and means "where the two waters meet." The Native Americans once used
this bay and the incoming Irondequoit Creek for canoe travel to avoid the high
falls on the Genesee River. At the southern end of the bay is a large
attractively styled new restaurant called Bazil's which features casual Italian
cuisine.
Although the restaurant is fairly new, the place was absolutely packed, and
the first thing we noticed was the chandelier in the front entrance hall which
is made completely of wine bottles. We waited for about 15 minutes and then had
a great dinner in the bay-side dining room area. I enjoyed the dinner which was
capped off by the largest and most delicious funnel cake I have ever seen.
After this long day of sightseeing Patti and Carrie dropped me off at the
Holiday Inn Express where I had well-deserved night's rest since another round
of sightseeing would await me in just a few hours. My first day in Rochester had
left me with a number of impressions:
- the large expanses of green spaces within the city
- meticulously manicured neighbourhoods with attractive well-kept homes
- several vibrant entertainment districts, including the historic High Falls
area
- one of my favourite spots: the outdoor art experience of ArtWalk
- the historic buildings of the downtown core
- and the beautiful bayside dining at Bazil's.
I admit I didn't know much about Rochester before I got there, but the scenic
quality of its suburban and downtown neighbourhoods definitely struck me.
Combined with convenient access to water sports on the Erie Canal and Lake
Ontario as well as to a huge variety of sports activities including golf,
hiking, biking and skiing ust minutes from the downtown core, I realized why
Rochester's slogan is "Made for Living".
About The Author
Susanne Pacher is the publisher of a website called Travel and
Transitions (http://www.travelandtransitions.com).
Travel and Transitions deals with unconventional travel and is chock full of
advice, tips, real life travel experiences, interviews with travellers and
travel experts, insights and reflections, cross-cultural issues, contests
and many other features. You will also find stories about life and the t-ransitions
that we face as we go through our own personal life-long journeys.
Submit your own travel stories in our first travel story contest (http://www.travelandtransitions.com/contests.htm)
and have a chance to win an amazing adventure cruise on the Amazon River.
"Life is a Journey Explore New Horizons".
The travel story with photos is published at Travel and Transitions –
Travel Stories (http://www.travelandtransitions.com/stories_photos/hello_rochester_2.htm).
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